One Thing Leads to Another: Musings in New York

Off I went to New York City, chasing a 9 liter bottle of our 1993 25th Anniversary Chardonnay (now 16 years old) to pour alongside our current release 2007 Chardonnay. The latter was recognized by Wine & Spirits Magazine as one of the Top Restaurant Wines in the Country. After 20 years of creating the poll, Wine & Spirits Magazine kicked-off its first ever “Top of the List” tasting at City Winery in Manhattan on June 2nd.

I landed in NY on Monday evening in time to meet up with a few friends for a glass of wine at City Hall Restaurant. Patrick Burke, a friend and associate of mine joined me at the restaurant. He mentioned that on a recent trip to Burgundy he had come across a bottle of ZD 1972 Pinot Noir in a retail store! He was kind enough to purchase it and bring it all the way back for me, as a gift. The wine was about 2 inches below its original fill height looking more like a keepsake than something we would actually drink. I thanked him, and put it in my wine bag (everyone should have one) and forgot about it as we headed off to dinner at Del Frisco’s.

At Del Frisco’s, we were warmly received by David O’Day, Corporate Wine Director, and his Sommelier, Crystal Friedman. Serving Abacus X (1992-2008) with their delicious steaks was a treat to be remembered. Why stop now, the next day we had lunch at Modern where Belinda Chang, Wine Director, formerly of San Francisco’s Fifth Floor, and Chicago’s Charlie Trotter, now resides. Belinda obviously knows how to find exceptional cuisine to pair with her wine lists. The “Slow Poached Egg in a Jar” with Maine Lobster, hearts of palm… is fantastic!

Time for the tasting! Opening a 9 Liter bottle (1993 ZD Chardonnay) is of course exciting. The golden wine that poured from the bottle was like nectar. The rich honey character was a reminder of a great Sauterne without the sugar. I received a lot of questions about how to go about pouring this wine out of a 9 Liter. A decanter both allowed me to keep the wine at a nice temperature as well as to not feel as if I was spending a night at the gym. Pouring the 1993 alongside our 2007 Chardonnay with its citrus, tropical fruit characters of grapefruit, pineapple and coconut showcased the differences between young and old. Check out older Magnums of ZD Chardonnay, as we are pouring and selling them in our tasting room through the month of June.

After the short three hour tasting, I still had over half of the 9 liter remaining. What to do? Time to visit more friends! I don’t have a great answer for carrying a 9 Liter bottle of Chardonnay down the streets of NYC. At Blue Ribbon we shared a little of our good fortune, and of course enjoyed a seafood platter upon arrival. The seafood disappeared before our eyes, but the bottle did not. Now where to go?

How about Lure? Once again the 9 Liter was the envy of the 6-8 block walk. At the restaurant, the ever jovial Executive Chef Josh Kapon and Sommelier, Natalie Tapken welcomed us with open arms and delicious sushi to continue the evening. As we listened to 80’s rock in background, and tested each other’s band knowledge of that era, we remembered the 1972 Pinot Noir in my wine bag! Should we open it? At first there was hesitation, which was followed by reserved excitement. Once opened, the first pour was offered to John Coyle, our NY distributor’s top salesman. The first word of out of his mouth was “Wow”! The wine was truly spectacular. I am just happy to say I knew the man who made this very special wine, as “Dad”. Thanks, Patrick!

And, yes, we finished the 9 Liter…

- Brett deLeuze, President